I have two major concerns (so far) which I would like some experienced … I usually remove the rear caliper from the disc, as the hose is not overly long, & insert a 4 or 5 mm object anyway, avoiding problems. Mineral hydraulic fluids are used in some braking systems, suspension systems, clutch systems, and in agricultural machinery, and other areas. If you have opened the system, meaning removed a hose or fitting or worked on the internals of a caliper or master cylinder (NOT meaning just removing top cover from master cylinder), then the bleeding process "can" take a long time, and be a real nasty chore occasionally. .....doing that will cause you LOTS OF GRIEF, because you will pump air into the system! WARNING! Upon lever release the pistons do NOT RETRACT FULLY, IF AT ALL. That includes the master cylinder inner boot and cover cap, not just the new brake fluid container cap. On the Airheads with a rear disc brake, rotating the caliper for the bleed port vertical is a must if the system is quite spongy & you have not been able to bleed it otherwise. I have used pieces of old very thin feeler gauge material which are steel. Only a bit of milling was needed on the caliper in this 'easy' installation. When reading any of the above website's information, pay attention to the effect that lever (or pedal!) if they were 'a bit touchy'. pageTracker._trackPageview(); Bleeding problems apply to front caliper(s) if the bleeder port not vertical. BUT:  You do NOT want too much brake on the sidecar. On the other Hand you can find stainless-steel braided brake hoses one-piece, two- I prefer NOT to use pressure bleeding AT THE CALIPER. Your cussing vocabulary is expanding. If no longer there, ask on the airheads LIST. Full range of EBC Brakes products for your BMW R100 RS at the best prices. Longevity of BMW Motorcycle brake hoses; specific problems ......and discussion about SS braided-covered hoses: Although the following problem used to be rare, it is not all that rare nowadays. g.  51 16 1 237 641 RIGHT side mirror, with SHORT stem, for the USA bars, as the stock mirror will not fit the wider handlebar assembly. A common BMW upgrade is going from one front disc to two; sometimes installing aftermarket floating discs. The width of the tool was 0.592". Besides regular maintenance brakes bleeding, another problem has been that the owner that pays little attention to anything but the fluid level in the master cylinder. Failure to faintly lubricate the pins can result in SQUEALING, and in some instances, the pads do not move squarely and smoothly. This, with the pads off-gassing, results in somewhat less braking. Complete brake set front for the BMW R series. You can also make the tool of different dimensions, just keep the THICKNESS. A popular lining is HH+. Swapping can be done for both sides, using the Left-Right, as described above, and reversing for the LEFT side of the Airhead (that means using the RIGHT Oilhead caliper at the LEFT airhead side). Still another problem is a faulty hose, from kinking of the tiny diameter plastic tube inside the hoses. BMW Airhead & K bike Motorcycle Brakes It LIKELY WILL SERIOUSLY DAMAGE the small thin plastic tubing located inside the hose, and the damage MIGHT not show up for a long time. #34 21 1 457 602 is 55 mm long; is for ONLY the K75 that has sand-cast shoes. It is better to have the level lower than the maximum line; INCLUDING when the bellows is installed and cover is on. Top Rated Seller Top Rated Seller. I cover customers fuel tanks & any area of exposed paint, with wet cotton towels. There is a circular stamping, with the numerals 86 in the center. I cannot overemphasize, DO NOT goop it thickly. You can try http://www.vintagebrake.com. Some anal types, & I am one of them, feel that the shaft of any of these models should be removed, O-ring(s) freshened if shaft uses them, & cleaned & freshly greased, at every other tire change. That USUALLY is not changeable hardly at all unless the entire assembly is changed to some other bike's or aftermarket equipment. €259,95. A caliper piston may be corroded or otherwise sticking, or there may be otherwise damaged or worn/aged parts. Some use some spaghetti tubing over the springs. Popular Items . Even if you are NOT opening the system, the following information may be of considerable value: Vacuum bleeding at the bleeder port may or may not work initially. by Richard(Sande)Sanders Sun Oct 27, 2019 2:45 pm; General Off Topic Chat Your totally irrelevant posts go here - keep it clean with no flaming and absolutely no politics (Club or otherwise). I know some who have used a press to fix most of any warpage. There is a "standard and accepted" left & right sides to front wheels. BMW GS brake upgrade - 4 and 6 piston etc. When the improved Airhead rectangular cap/cover is used, a gasket (I do NOT mean the rubber bellows) under it was eliminated. BMW sold both single and dual disc braked motorcycles, and occasionally the second front disc was available as an extra cost option. Because of this, & the thin discs used on motorcycles to save weight & improve handling, I recommend you NOT resurface your discs. No end to braking ideas. Install a limiting block if you wish. Most do not seem to initially consider that a powerful sidecar brake is not only not needed, but it can be a big detriment. 6. Replacement with a new disc/carrier may be required. Do moderately strong stops for first 100 miles or so, & then the brakes should work OK, but DO follow pad maker's instructions on break-in. The standard kit fits 81-84 R80 and R100 models. I use rubber bands to hold the wood block to the throttle. Thus we have new products for your BMW in our assortment. That shaft may have up to 7 grooves machined into it. I suggest you review this article, which has photos. http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/so-you-want-better-brake-on-your-r100gs-why-not-a-4-pot-brembo.625343/. THAT is hardly ever discussed. Racing fluids may have viscosities that are not good for your BMW ....that is, they may be too thick. Before the lever moves all the way, tighten the bleed port lightly. Staggered size pistons calipers are staggered in size specifically to help with the molecular surface out-gassing problems. There are some other anomalies, some I have never written about. The spacer should fit well, as you do not want the caliper pistons moving much at all when you are bleeding, to avoid possible dirty/corroded places on the pistons, which will wear the square O-ring that does the fluid sealing. There have been instances of SINGLE (only) front disc models having loose bolts where the disc assembly bolts to the wheel hub. AGAIN, note, this is only for a properly bled brake system that has a reasonably nice hard lever feel. If your rubber hoses are in good condition, going to braided SS covered hoses may gain you nothing!! 2.35 mm   34 11 1 238 080 If these things do not work, then I recommend TYING the lever back, letting the system again sit overnight. Brake pads left and right 4. The early one fit into the cover, and leaks were possible. BMW Motorcycles of Grand Rapids Online Parts. It is entirely possible for pads to wear, & the fluid level NOT go down, due to accumulated water! calipers from one motorcycle at such as a BMW salvage yard. Maybe if a kit has been on the shelf a long time you can make a deal. All for the sake of a few minutes of labor and a can of brake fluid, which is cheap! Brake fluid typically absorbs very approximately 1% of water, PER YEAR. There are even front wheels so marked on the rim .....some discs also have arrows for forward direction. Cost is cheap though. One pedal or two, tie in to the tug's rear braking system or not, all no big preference. I almost never split one due to various problems (including needing resurfacing) with trying to get the calipers to be leak-proof, after re-assembly. For bikes with the MC on the right bar end area, move the bars to the left some; you want the MC to be high and more square to the floor. Shop 1981 BMW R100RT Motorcycle Parts from BMW Motorcycles of Grand Rapids - keep your BMW R100RT original and maintain the purity of BMW Motorrad performance. Except for racy appearance, I do NOT like SS braided hoses. AVOID hydrocarbon solvents other than brake cleaners. brakes, and sometimes even aftermarket brakes, grafted onto Airheads. A sidecar itself brake requirement (if you intend to have a sidecar brake) is ....or can be ....very different from a front or rear brake installation and operational requirements of a motorcycle. S A Master Sleeves Brake Repair, 33 Main Rd, Wynberg, Capetown, So. configuration 2-2 for R60/7 - R100RT 1978-* or with a hole configuration 3-2 for R60/6 - It is just how we are constructed. SOME professionals, in my opinion, WRONGLY do this. IT IS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY TO CLEAN THOSE DISC HOLES or SLOTS BY THE METHODS I HAVE DESCRIBED, PLUS USING SANDPAPER! I am well-aware that is controversial ....especially if you are in the business of SELLING new discs! One of the 13 mm master cylinder on-bars had two cover versions. A LOT of misinformation is always floating around about compatibility of brake discs, pad materials, etc. Unfortunately, those with the G/S and ST, who have single discs, & who want more braking, have a limited selection of master cylinders from BMW, and may have to go to the aftermarket. Your braking will improve by a HUGE amount by converting to 4 spot calipers. However ...most stock hydraulic rubber hoses (these have internal tubes too, usually larger diameter) last 20 or 30+ years; and SS hoses DO NOT. The earlier Oilheads calipers have identical bolt-hole spacing & only need approx. I suggest you do not use it, it can cause major problems, and was NOT for installing pistons and seals anyway. I clean the disc surface; after cleaning the disc holes (Q-tips & strong solvent); with very fine grit sandpaper, then a clean rag. You might describe it as being slightly more spongy. Silicone fluids have many bad things that can happen, including microscopic air bubbles, frothing, foaming. This is especially so with rebuilds. However, this is usually only a small amount more of lever movement so long as you don't go overboard on adding discs/calipers. It is up to you to make any decision regarding use of a different type of lining or pad material for your bike. I suggest you bleed until the fluid is fully clear AND rather considerably more. BLEEDING, FLUSHING, BRAKE FLUIDS, PRELIMINARY: Brake bleeding should be considered a "NORMAL YEARLY MUST-DO" maintenance item. Brake Feel is hard to describe. Water vapor can get into your brake fluid from molecular sized cracks, fittings, hoses, connections, etc. An actual conversion: It is my guess that part of this has to do with position (dirt, including atmospheric dirt, coming rearward; and, the heat generated by the rear drive being somewhat transferred ....and we ALL know (??) Look for the name of the companies in the B section of that article. So, if you intend to use those plates (NOT recommended by me), have well worn pads first, & remember that I told you NOT to install them. Warning! GS from 1987, as well as the BMW models R65 and R80 from 1985. The initial damage from these various things is almost always HIDDEN. Make a modern café racer by customizing the engine and exhaust components for your bike. The real purpose of the tool is to be sure the piston in the master cylinder sticks outwards the correct amount, so the bleed-back hole in the MC is not 'covered'. My own shop usually tried simple manual bleeding first. The stock turn signal switch will attach to the new throttle/MC assembly; the stock lower brake hose attaches to the 'distributor'. They are usually cheaper than sintered pads; give a softer, perhaps smoother (especially at first application) engagement. the same as DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluids. Also check the servo is working properly if fitted (a duff servo normally gives you a hard pedal with a lack of braking force) and that the master cylinderseals are good (leaking seals give you a soft pedal, often slowly "sinking" if held under pressure). It can be MUCH WORSE! I have actually seen a light weight sidecar rig with a BICYCLE disc brake, and it worked fine! https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/references.htm  under B (brakes), There are places that can resleeve/overhaul master cylinders (these are the only names I have collected so far): The fix is to resurface the halves on a surface plate with some 1000 grit Wet-or-Dry paper, using wetted paper, water is OK.    You can start with slightly coarser paper. ATE models of the swinging caliper type disc brakes have an adjustable cam at the bottom of the brake caliper. C $169.58. Do not try to heat the brakes to an extreme degree. document.write(unescape("%3Cscript src='" + gaJsHost + "google-analytics.com/ga.js' type='text/javascript'%3E%3C/script%3E")); C $155.44. Even a partial non-release will cause problems, the least of which is, after awhile, a change in the surface of the pads; MAYBE some squealing; USUALLY poor pad friction. Many used the 33 mm cam disc with 15 mm hole. Stock BMW R100GS solid rotor 34 11 2 310 143, about $190. After the major part of that pressure is relieved (one hopes), by releasing the lever, the final bit of pressure relief effect is from the caliper piston O-ring deformation, now pushing the piston back a quite small amount. HH and HH+ pads have almost no drawbacks, except maybe a tendency to grab a bit abruptly at first use, especially on some types of these pads and after overnight cooling in high humidity areas. Two of the major reasons folks put on SS lines is because they think they look racy; or, they think it will fix softness in the lever, which it will if the softness or sponginess is already due to poor bleeding ....or truly bad hoses (like a blister, much more rare than you may think). I prefer doing them first ....it usually results in a quicker job, less fluid needed, etc. It must return the piston into the caliper a tiny amount AND seal for fluid. Once silicone is put into a supposedly clean system, even a supposedly well-cleaned entire system, some stuff WILL USUALLY REMAIN. This same sort of electrical problem can occur if the round rubber sort-of-half-tube thing that cushions the FRONT of the tank is deteriorated. DOT 3 fluids are usually glycol ether based, but that is not because they are required to be. By definition, DOT 3 fluids must have a minimum dry boiling point (measured with 0 percent water by volume) of 401°F and a minimum wet boiling point (measured with 3.7 percent water by volume) of 284°F. It has dual disc brakes with new Factory Pads installed and stainless brake … NOT TRUE! Brake fluid is VERY cheap compared to new parts or trying to overhaul calipers and/or master cylinder; or to re-sleeve a master cylinder. According to BMW, one should take the approach in steps. e.g. And at least the brake pads kit rear for the models R80 and R100GS from September 1989, as well as for the R80R, R100R, R100R Mystik, R65- } catch(err) {} put pressure on brake discs when changing tires or doing other wheel work! This reduction in size MAY work if you are ADDING a caliper; but less likely if increasing caliper piston area very considerably. When you try to reassemble the parts, small distortions from tightening the bolts (new ones in the kit) will sometimes let the calipers leak. A) Sleeved only $105.00 - Send us empty housing, plastic reservoir and all fittings etc. The tool length is not important, the original was about 2". For the Airheads with one hose & a cross-over pipe at the twin front discs, it is often necessary to unfasten and move the system in such a way that the bleeder ports are dead-vertical. DO NOT USE THEM. Later, BMW changed that ordering number to 07 11 9 906 328. Calculate from the area of a circle:  each piston has an area of its radius squared times pi. This is particularly so with the swinging ATE brake calipers. Brembo used to supply a tiny tube of silicone grease for this. NEVER EVER do those things! They may or may not be difficult to install. ...Compare with systems, such as Harley had at one time with DOT5 which is a silicone fluid. All these $$$ things will happen, for failure of a cheap can of brake fluid, perhaps once every year, or not later than 2 years. Adjust so the tool is JUST free to move, then tighten the locknut. Last check/edit: For most of us the pedal has a limited possible movement, in accordance with human anatomy, which leads to a quite different ratio of master cylinder to brake cylinder ratio. E32 730i (L6&V8) E34 525i-535i-530i: V 302 x 22. R2V-GS 1991-* & BASIC; R2V *-9/1984; R80ST; R2V-GS 1988 - 1990; R80/100R Paralever; /6 /7 *-9/1980; R100R ...then again let the bike sit overnight (don't tie the lever this time). I have designed and built a few racing and street and off-road sidecar rigs. c.  32 72 2 310 747 is the 14 mm throttle and master cylinder assembly for years 1985 onwards,  this allows the keeping of your stock dual throttle cables. Do NOT overly tighten the cap, as the rubber gasket will squish a bit out & you will have a leak. 34 11 1 160 367/368. It is #AS568A Dash Number107; and is part number 9557K72. The three-part brake hoses are available for R100CS 9/1980 - 9/1984, R2V 9/1980-* but NOT R45/65; The front brakes lines has been replaced with stainless steel brake lines. Ask him if he can handle the wheels ...which would be better, as drums distort faintly when re-spoked ...or you can precisely measure the drums & give him the measurements(??) 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